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Glens_of_Antrim_Tiger

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Posts: 7
Reply with quote  #1 
Hi all, I was looking for some opinions on the pro's con's of each sump. I understand cost is a big factor but I wish to disregard this point for now.
I have a spare 2.0 blacktop zetec engine which I am thinking of building up for my tiger super6. Since I am considering a complete overhaul on this engine I am taking the view of doing the job once to cover any future possibilities for example track days or hill climbs.
Space in the engine bay may be a factor with the additional reservoir.
In the future I am toying with the idea of supercharging too 😁
Any thoughts and experiences welcome
Thanks
Francis
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Ettienne

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Posts: 21
Reply with quote  #2 
Hi Francis
I can only tell you about my experience personally. I did a full rebuild on the zee tech silver top and sat with the same issue with a wry will be dry sump or wet sump. I opted for the witch some and went for a race line sump. This decision was driven by cost more than anything. I’ve done track days and practice sessions on different tracks and have never had a problem with oil starvation up-to-date.
Supercharger
If I had the opportunity to build a black top like you are doing right now. I would definitely supercharge from the start! Unfortunately the black top supercharger does not fit the silver top hence why I don’t have it on. The fact is our cars are so light that the supercharger is much easier to drive and control power than the turbocharged versions.

Have fun with this and let us know what you decide to do!
Thanks

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Gazza

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Reply with quote  #3 
Hi Francis,

Dont take this the wrong way but what you are proposing is going to be limited by the Tiger Super 6 chassis either on a track day or in sprint events due to it being a Live Axle and the weight of the car when compared to other 7 type cars.

I have been involved with Tiger Racing, both building and racing their cars since 1999 and my first car from them was a Tiger Super 6. Over the years I have had the Tiger Super 6, Tiger R6 and Tiger R10 which was factory built in 2011.

The current evolution of the car is now fitted with a Dry Sumped 2lt Duratec Engine, 12-1 pistons, forged Rods, Machined Crank, Piper Cams with Uprated Springs, 50mm Throttle Bodies, Electronic Drive by Wire Throttle with 8 Fuel Injectors and a Raceline Dry Sump.

I have also spent a lot of time and effort and improving the handling of the car and removing weight from the suspenion and wheels.

The car now has Suspension made by Siltech Racing which now has the front wheel track the same width as the rear wheels, with Billet Ali Uprights and Hubs and Aero Profile Upper and Lower Wishbones that are fitted with a Graphite Bushing that offers hardly no resistance.

The suspension mods and other changes made to the car by Siltech Racing Saved 45kg in total, overall since the car was new I have removed some +/- 100kg and the car now weighs 660kg with me in the car in racing gear and 5 lt of fuel.

To get the power down I use a 245 x 13 inch tyre on the rear and a 215 x 13 inch tyre on the front.

One of the most important things to bear in mind is that a poor handling car with lots more power such as fitting a more powerful engine or super charging a engine will only show up the handling issues even more.

More power doesnt always mean you are going to be quicker.

If you are committed to fitting a Dry Sump I would suggest fitting the tank infront of the scuttle on the passenger side, to do this you need to do the following.

- Remove the heater is fitted and revise the piping.
- Fit a false bulkhead in the passenger footwell.
- Move the Battery down into the passenger footwell to leave as much space as possible in front of the scuttle.
- Moving the Dry Sump and Battery will help to give a better weight distribution and also move the weight to a lower point in the car.

If you do not fancy the thought of the time and money that you will spend then the alternative is to bu a car that has already had the work done to it.

Cropped - LiveMessage_2019-11-05-23-17-05 (1).jpg 

51805355_348995762618860_7377528623567208448_n.jpg     20170812_182304.jpg 

51620134_371074437041173_5535162037845360640_n.jpg     Old & New Front Suspension.jpg 


   


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Gazza
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Monster_UK

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Posts: 118
Reply with quote  #4 
I could look at your car all day Gazza!  Still haven't managed to get mine out on track yet... the tracks are starting to reopen so it shouldn't be too long!


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Tiger Super Six with 2L Zetec
Blog: http://www.cartigersupersix.com
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Abe

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Posts: 597
Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monster_UK
I could look at your car all day Gazza!  Still haven't managed to get mine out on track yet... the tracks are starting to reopen so it shouldn't be too long!



Agreed, amazing looking and specced up machine 🀩
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Andromeda

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Posts: 103
Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazza
Hi Francis,

Dont take this the wrong way but what you are proposing is going to be limited by the Tiger Super 6 chassis either on a track day or in sprint events due to it being a Live Axle and the weight of the car when compared to other 7 type cars.

I have been involved with Tiger Racing, both building and racing their cars since 1999 and my first car from them was a Tiger Super 6. Over the years I have had the Tiger Super 6, Tiger R6 and Tiger R10 which was factory built in 2011.

The current evolution of the car is now fitted with a Dry Sumped 2lt Duratec Engine, 12-1 pistons, forged Rods, Machined Crank, Piper Cams with Uprated Springs, 50mm Throttle Bodies, Electronic Drive by Wire Throttle with 8 Fuel Injectors and a Raceline Dry Sump.

I have also spent a lot of time and effort and improving the handling of the car and removing weight from the suspenion and wheels.

The car now has Suspension made by Siltech Racing which now has the front wheel track the same width as the rear wheels, with Billet Ali Uprights and Hubs and Aero Profile Upper and Lower Wishbones that are fitted with a Graphite Bushing that offers hardly no resistance.

The suspension mods and other changes made to the car by Siltech Racing Saved 45kg in total, overall since the car was new I have removed some +/- 100kg and the car now weighs 660kg with me in the car in racing gear and 5 lt of fuel.

To get the power down I use a 245 x 13 inch tyre on the rear and a 215 x 13 inch tyre on the front.

One of the most important things to bear in mind is that a poor handling car with lots more power such as fitting a more powerful engine or super charging a engine will only show up the handling issues even more.

More power doesnt always mean you are going to be quicker.

If you are committed to fitting a Dry Sump I would suggest fitting the tank infront of the scuttle on the passenger side, to do this you need to do the following.

- Remove the heater is fitted and revise the piping.
- Fit a false bulkhead in the passenger footwell.
- Move the Battery down into the passenger footwell to leave as much space as possible in front of the scuttle.
- Moving the Dry Sump and Battery will help to give a better weight distribution and also move the weight to a lower point in the car.

If you do not fancy the thought of the time and money that you will spend then the alternative is to bu a car that has already had the work done to it.

Cropped - LiveMessage_2019-11-05-23-17-05 (1).jpg 

51805355_348995762618860_7377528623567208448_n.jpg     20170812_182304.jpg 

51620134_371074437041173_5535162037845360640_n.jpg     Old & New Front Suspension.jpg 


   

Now that is a nice car πŸ‘πŸ‘

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2.0 Zetec silver top, OMEX ecu, Kents cams, zx6r carbs, pipercross filter, HI Spec disks and callipers. 
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