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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #1 
Am I right in thinking there is such a thing? There doesn’t seem to be any current info about races on the Tiger webpage. I’d love to get out and watch some Tigers racing.
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Reply with quote  #2 
i think the race series stopped a few years ago. I’d also like to see tiger racing but can’t find any info of it recently.
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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #3 
It sounds like me might have lost the race series then... that's a shame.

I might drop Tiger an e-mail asking if they know of any racing series that the marque is taking part in.  Perhaps we could organise a get together in support 😉

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Reply with quote  #4 
Yep, the Tiger race series only lasted a few years back in around 2004 to maybe 2010. There were still a few that raced in with the 750 motor club, but no dedicated series sadly.
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Reply with quote  #5 
Thanks Mark... that's really useful. 

Looks like there were three Tigers out in last year's Sports Special Championship (although they didn't make every round and don't seem to have challenged the lead!):

https://www.750mc.co.uk/ugc-1/1/22/0/fcf5ff9f-8679-44e4-9325-b6ef93a87ede.pdf

The series has a Facebook group.  I've joined that.  I might take a run out to the Silverstone and/or Brands hatch rounds to have a watch.

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Reply with quote  #6 
Gazza on here used to race with the 750 club I think, he might be able to help and also Paul Dudley from the factory.
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Gazza

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Reply with quote  #7 
To all asking about the Tigers on Track.

Most Tigers out on track these days are racing in the 750 Club Sports Special Series with some success as they are not always out in all of the rounds.

The following Drivers were out last year - 

Mick Grant - RS Tiger with a Ali Body with Duratec Engine

Ryan Slaney - Tiger R10 with Zetec Engine

Gary Davison - Tiger R10 with Duratec Engine

Tommy Griffiths - Tiger R10 with Duratec Engine - Race Winner at Snetterton last year and missed out on 2 other possible wins after Drive by Wire System for the Throttle Bodies failed.

Colin Childs - Tiger Avon with a Zetec Engine which Colin Sold or put back on the road a few years ago to race a Cyana which looks a bit like a Avon GTA.

Wayne Rothwell - Tiger Avon with a Zetec Engine won the 750 Sport Special Championship.
Wayne then built a Avon GTA with a Honda Engine and again either won or came very close to winning the 750 Championship.
Next was a Tiger RS6 with a Supercharged Engine which went on to win a number of Races.  

Richard and Joanne Burden - Tiger R6 with a Zetec Engine that is used for Sprint Events, Richard has done very well during the year with his car winning a number of sprint events.

The other race series to look for Tiger's is the Classic Sports Car Club - Magnificent 7 Series, most of the cars in this series are Caterhams with a few Westfields and other 7 type cars.
The Mag 7 races are all 40 minute races with a 1 minute pit stop during the race where a second driver can take over if there is a shared drive.

Again Tiger Cars have made a showing from time to time including winning the Championship Class they were in as the cars are sorted by the BHP they produce.

The really fast Caterhams are now using a 2.3lt Duratec Engine with 52mm Throttle Bodies producing +/- 320 bhp and using paddle shift levers on the steering wheel with Traction and Launch Control.

They will lap the Brands Hatch Indy Circuit in the region of 48 seconds and quick Tiger will be around the 52 - 54 second mark.

Most of the Tigers Racing have been heavily modified Suspension, Lightweight Hubs, Billet Machined Uprights, and Engines.

I am using a Emerald K6 ECU which can run 3 separate engine maps, so you can have one for dry weather, one for wet weather with a softer engine performance, and lastly one for MOT/IVA to conform to emissions   

Suspension Kits for the Tiger R6 / R10 and possibly the Tiger Super 6 with anti roll bars are available through Siltech Racing. The complete kit will remove some 25kgs in weight from the car by swapping the Ford uprights and hubs for the Siltech Racing set up.

It needs to be fitted as a complete kit as it is very different, the kit will be -
Aero Profile T45 Tubing Upper and Lower Wishbone Arms that will move the track of the front wheels out so they are parallel with the rear wheels.
Billet Machined Front Uprights and Hubs - This is where the most weight is saved.
Graphite Bushes which have almost no resistance unlike poly bushes.
Brake disc's for 13" wheels and Wilwood Calipers fitted with Hawk Brake Pads - These have a large operating range and will work from 10 deg's my disc's are deep blue when I come off track.
Mud Guard Stays.
Carbon Fibre Mud Guards.
Protech Shocks and Springs in a range of anodised colours when placing the order which might have up to a 6 week delivery time over the standard ali colour units.
Brake Hose's
Modification to Steering Rack to allow for wider wheel track

All of the above is +/- £2,500 fitted when I did my car, prices might have changed a little bit but should be in this region.

The Anti Roll bar is a bolt on to the chassis extra again made from T45 tubing and it really works well.  

20170401_123453.jpg 
Siltech Racing Front Suspension for Tiger R6 / R10

40591346_2155717667792202_5069395396057366528_n.jpg 
Jenvey Drive Drive By Wire Gear Wheel that failed at Donington while leading the first race.

Donington 750 Race.jpg   
Tiger leading the pack down into the Craner Curves before the gear wheel failed.

The above car is now 650kg with driver in race gear and 10 litres of fuel when put on the weigh scales.

I hope the above helps you all who want to see Tigers on Track.

Best Regards,

Gazza


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Reply with quote  #8 
Excellent Gazza, thanks for the info 😉

Mick Grant, those were the days - if you speak to him, get him to log on here and say Mark said hello 😉

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althecate1

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Reply with quote  #9 

Nice to hear so many of the original racers still at it. never raced myself but spectated a few times at Mallory and the race held at Silverstone ( was it the onlytime there?) 

Alec


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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #10 
Gazza,

Thanks!  That's a great response.  Your car looks great those billet machined parts look the business!

I might at some point in the (distant) future get into racing but I'm more interested in getting out and seeing some Tigers on the track.  I've joined the 750 facebook group and am going to keep an eye on their calendar.  I'll post up if I have any plans see if anyone fancies a trip out.

Are you running ABS on the brakes?  Is that what the sensor is near the brake disc?

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Gazza

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Reply with quote  #11 
Hi Monster UK,

I am using Hawk Brake Pads with Wilwood Calipers as that is what the Siltech Racing set up was designed for.

I have to say that they are the best pads that I have used and would recommend them even for road use as they give excellent braking even from cold.

The senors are for the Traction and Launch Control that runs through the Emerald K6 ECU. 

It works by checking the difference between the front wheels and the driven rear wheels so if the rear wheel start to spin or loose traction the ECU will adjust the power.

If you are interested in racing probably the cheapest way is with the 750 club in the Locost or MX5 Series. 

You can buy a race ready car for £3,000 - £4,000 and a years racing will cost you around the same again.

Hope that this helps.

Gazza

 

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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #12 
Hi Gazza,

Thanks for the further info.  I suspected it was something to do with monitoring the rotation of the wheel.

I'm some distance off doing racing.  I've done quite a bit of karting and a number of the 'red letter' type track days.  Can't wait to get my Tiger out onto the track this year.  The goal is to have it track focused but road legal.

I was seriously considering an MX-5 when I spotted my SuperSix for sale.  I'd feel like I was cheating if I got something else now [wink]

Tim

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Gazza

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Reply with quote  #13 
Hi Tim.

If you are thinking of doing a few track days I would strongly recommend booking with Dave Woodall at Open Track -   https://www.opentrack.co.uk/

Not only is he one of the cheaper operators but you also have the option of booking for "Free Tuition" which will usually be from Mike Wild who is a Car Racer that has been at the top and still racing.

The other positives is Dave always has a photographer at his track days, who will snap away all day and then post the pictures on Flicker so they can be downloaded for free.

The critical things to check with a 7 type car before going on track is - 

- Exhaust Silencer - You must complete a Noise Check before being allowed on track. Most Circuits have a Static Noise Test Level of 105 db and a Drive by check of 90 / 95 db. A lot of 7 type cars suffer from high induction noise levels on the drive by when on track.

There are ways around the Drive By Limit if you know where the meters are by lifting as you go past, if you are brought in / Black Flagged it could mean the end of the days fun.

Cadwell Park is the only Circuit at the moment with no noise checks.

If you have a Silencer you can repack then it would be a good idea to have a go at repacking it before the big day. I use a product called http://www.textiletechnologies.co.uk/acousta-filr-zt1-exhaust-silencer-packing.html

Use a old Christmas Paper card tube to wrap the Acousta Fill around, you will need 2 layers held in place by some electrical tape, Not too Much and Not too Tight. 
You can slide the Acousta Fill off the card tube over the perforated tube inside the silencer. The electrical tape will melt and burn off allowing the Acousta Fill to expand and fill the silencer.
 
- Check the tyres you have fitted to the car to make sure that if you are going to drive your car home at the end of the car that it is still road legal as you will loose far more rubber than on the road.

- Check Tyre Pressures each time before going on track most tyres, Avon ZZR or ZZS, Yokohama A048, Toyo 888 or Kuhmo V70 you will need to set the tyre pressures about 16 / 18 psi as after about 15 - 20 min on track they have increased in pressure to about 22 - 24 psi.
If you start with a tyre pressure that is too high the tyre contact area will be reduced as the tyre become convex or the tread area which could lead to you going off the track.

- If you have a screen, think about removing it as it will restrict your view of the track / corners at times and fit an aero screen, sit as low as you can to reduce the wind buffet it is surprising how much the wind / air pushes your head back at 140mph on the straight.

- Keep an eye on oil levels as the oil in the sump will get thrown to one side during cornering, you might need to fit a catch tank which could be a plastic bottle so you can see the oil inside and monitor it. This why most faster cars have a Dry Sump 
fitted to the engine.

- Seat Harness, think about fitting a 4 point harness or even 5 point if you can, you will also need to be able to pull it tight so you dont move around in the corners.

- You do not need a racing suit for track days, but you will need to wear long trousers and a jacket with sleeves. The inside of the car can get very hot from the engine/gearbox heat on a summers day.

-  You can also get by with using a Motorcycle Crash Helmet, these can be Full Face or Open Face.

- Take enough fuel for the day as it isnt always possible to buy fuel at the track and it also tends to be very expensive as it will be race grade fuel - £1.50 - £1.80 a liter. You will use far more fuel than on the road due to be flat out most of the time. My car is doing 6 miles to the gallon at Snetterton.

- Take plenty of drink with you... Water / Squash rather than fizzy drinks as you will be working up a sweat and might end up with cramp at the end of the day if not.  

- Lastly take it easy to start with and learn the racing lines there will be marker cones placed at corners to help as a guide, speed will come as you get used to cornering as you need to get your head around using all the track.

There are rules for track days which you will be told about at the morning briefing such as -


- No Overtaking in the Corners, its a Track Day not a Race.

- Over Taking is by Invitation so if you see a faster car catching you on the straight you indicate to the right and give the car space to pass on the Left

- Stay to the right of the Blend Line when joining the Track which allow you to see cars travelling at speed.

- Drive with care in the pits / paddock area after coming off track as 20 mph suddenly feels like you are crawling. 

- Lastly try obtaining a copy of - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Circuit-Guide-2009-Richard-Redwin/dp/0955806674/ref=sr_1_1?crid=F4E3EDYY0UMN&keywords=uk+circuit+guide&qid=1580336108&sprefix=circuit+guide+%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-1

UK Circuit Guide 2009 Spiral-bound – 31 Jan 2009

 

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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #14 
Gazza,

Thanks! Such a comprehensive reply [smile]

I'll definitely look into your recommendation.  

It's really useful to see your advice.  I'm concerned about the noise.  I don't have repackable silencer (yet)but I don't want to fork out for a track day and then see the black flag!  My mechanic does motorsport and has supported some pretty high level racing.  I'm going to get him to do the static noise check when I have my MOT in April.  If it's close (which I suspect it will be) then I'll get the silencer first and one less track day this year.

I'm down in Berkshire so Cadwell is probably a bit of a run for me.  I was thinking Castle Combe (Avon rise... eek!), Abingdon and Brands Hatch (I see opentrack do Brands).

I've got Toyo 888s on at the moment.  I was planning to do tread depth before and after (and probably during) to see how much meat I take off them.  I have digital pressure gauge to keep an eye on pressures.  18 psi was where I was going to start.

I have an aeroscreen, four point harness and a decent enough helmet (from when I was karting).

The advice on fuel is well received.  I was wondering about this.  The rules at Castle Combe seem to suggest that you can't take fuel with you.  It's stupidly expensive at the track as you point out.  I was going to call them about it before booking.

Quote:
Lastly take it easy to start with


I might write that advice on a piece of paper have it laminated and stick it to the steering wheel!!  If there is one think I know right now is the car has more performance than I have driving skill.  I plan easing myself in!

Again, thanks for all of the advice!  I really appreciate it.  One of the best things about owning a Tiger is the community!

Tim

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Gazza

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Reply with quote  #15 
Hi Tim,

If you are going to go down the route of a new silencer you to make sure that it has a Aluminium Body.

The ali body will help absorb the resonate pinging that you would get off a Stainless Body Silencer.

I bought mine from Paul Dunnel ready to fit but if you have access to fabrication machines / welders you can have a go yourself by using the end caps and internals of your existing silencer.

You need to obtain a off cut of ali tubing with the same internal diameter as the external diameter of your existing silencer and same length.  

If you cut the ends off leaving enough material to form a flange area, you can then drill through the outer ali and stainless flange off the original silencer you can now use 4.5mm pop rivets to hold the ali tube in place.

If you have never worked with Stainless Steel before you need slow rpm and pressure to drill it, if the drill speed is too high the drill bit will overheat and burn out glowing a nice red colour.

Castle Combe is a fantastic circuit and has some very fast / high speed corners but has a very strict drive by noise limit even on race days.

The noise meter used to be by the start / finish line, some of the regular Castle Combe drivers used to have a tail pipe that would face towards the infield away from the pit wall and the noise meter.

You can download a Decibel Noise Meter for your mobile, have the car parked in a open space so the noise isnt being rebounded off surrounding buildings. You need to hold the phone about 1 meter away from the exhaust exit at a angle of 45 deg's in both axis forwards and upwards and then rev the engine to 2/3rds max power / rev limit.

So if your max rev limit is 9,000 rpm you need to rev the engine to 6,000 rpm for the noise test.

Lastly the track owners do not like petrol being spilled in the paddock area when refueling cars most of us use a pump that attaches to the jerry can, 4 pumps will be equal to 1 gallon of fuel, you can buy them through Demon Tweeks or Tiger Racing - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/demon-tweeks-fuel-transfer-pump-for-jerry-cans-mks3003/

Have fun on track.

Gazza

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Reply with quote  #16 
Tim,

This is the Dunnel Silencer, you can see the Pop Rivets. 

Silencer.jpg 

Gazza


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