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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #1 
OK, thought i would start a build thread instead of a separate thread for every question I have.

Bit of a back story My father in law purchased the kit when he retired, he then went back to work and the car progress stopped, I picked it up and all he kit that went with it some 6-7 years after it initally stalled

it took me a little time to get started I had to clear my own project first to get it started

I have never worked with Ford before, I am an Aircooled VW guy, and a helicopter engineer so pretty hand with a set of spanners


The car was a rolling chassis(ish) when i got it and lots of boxes of parts and an engine, a big folder of paperwork.

I started the engine rebuild towards the end of summer and moved the chassis into the workshop i have access to in november... I have been lurking for some time looking at various build sites gathering as much informantion as I could, the Paul toyne page and tiger supercat.com etc etc , so with your help aswell I have made it this far, 

engine strip new belt, arp bolts clean and a lick of paint 







Gearbox drained, cleaned, new bellhousing fitted, extension fitted, painted




Alternator fitted with covers,




Crud plate manufactured, flywheel fitted



Gearbox, clutch crud plate, starter, married up and ready to mount




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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #2 
So I pushed it from the loosely built rolling chassis I had done in my garage, which was approx 2 miles form the workshop I had access too, would have towed it but didnt have a bar and it has no brakes at all, so I pushed it.... they are heavier than they look ,

chucked it in to the workshop and put it on axle stands



Slotted the engine in to mock the mounts up, plan was to lift it back out to sort the routing of the brake lines and clip them in, but i have managed to do it all with the engine in place ( though I have lifted it, and manipulated it to work around)





Fitted the carbs and the exhaust to try and get the position ok




fiddled of hours and ended up with the engine just off centre to the right as you look form the front, the clearence was gained by using 50 mm mounts from a mk 2 escort, even the dog was bored of me moaning about it!






Bit the bullet and drilled it!




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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #3 

Mounting plate modified, and drilled





Used this diagram to plumb her in, alas smashed my phone while copying the picture



got carried away while I had no phone and plumbed, wrapped and fitted the brake lines, calipers, hubs, radiator, switch and slaved in the wiring harness, slaved the webcon harness in, fitted the linkage,(under the carbs, fuel line, clutch cable) and then looked at the panel the exhaust exits
 first cardboard


then i had a rough hole cut, then built up the surrounding using masking tape untill the profile of the hole was closed up



transferred this over to the panel

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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #4 
Chain drilled it out 



Fitted



Battery tray, and header tank fitted




Now... how does this nose fit.... I cant get it close anywhere






and how the hell do these seats fit.....




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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #5 
Issues over come so far, water pump changed to one that turns the right way and had a good contact with the belt, made the crud guard as there is massive spaces, took ages to find a clutch fork pin for the new bel housing, button power helped me out here, struggled to find good location for the linkage as I have raised the engine for clearance, underneath works well, I am not looking forward to doing the wiring, the webcon alpha system is really straight forward, the brake lines are fitted but I needed to move the original routing in the tunnel due to the extension, I haven't bolted in the rear gear-box mount as it is ill fitting at the moment and needs to be moved a little to get it in the middle of the tunnel

I am struggling to find a way to fit the nose with a decent gap, the bonnet does not fit that well there is a gap of about 1/2-3/4 inch between the bonnet and the body

Not sure how the seats attach, was going to use a set of rails but I am not sure how I can bolt/ attach them
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robcod3

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Reply with quote  #6 
Great work, keep at it.
Yes getting a decent gap on the bodywork is something we all struggled with but you'll get there in the end. I have one seats and I just bolted down through the seats into the rails. You may have to re drill holes in the seats so they line up, then use some big washers.

Keep us posted on the build.
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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #7 
mmm i may have to have a closer look at the seats, as mine have no holes in them at all, and look like the bottom pad is already bonded to the bottom of the seat, will have another look, as I just slotted them into the car and didnt have a long look.

Did anyone eles have to notch the nose cone, it appears that mine is being held away by the bars that the headlights mount to...
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overdriver

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Reply with quote  #8 


It would appear so. The original builder of my Cat 'sculpted' (carved?) scoops out of each side to clear the headlamp brackets.

IMG_20160118_114845651 small.jpg 

Michael.


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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #9 
ooooh I like the use of the zeus fastner to hold the nose in at the top....... I assume that attached to a fixed bracket on the frame?  Thanks for the picture, before I take the drastic measure of doing that I am going to remove the radiator and and fiddle around with the bracketry for it to see if I can get it to sit better,
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overdriver

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Reply with quote  #10 
Hi Jock,

Not sure if they are original equipment but have a look in any bags of bits that came with the car for some bent & twisted brackets. These are likely to be for the nose-cone fastening.

Dzus bracket 1.jpg  Dzus bracket 2.jpg 

With the left (near side) one I have attached a nose-cone stay wire (actually on old guitar string [bottom E I think] in an old flex sleeve) to the indicator mount inside the cone. This limits the amount of travel when opening the nose - although the nose does have to be squeezed slightly to get it between the 7" headlamps.

Nose cone stay wire.jpg 

The Dzus fasteners are OK but you may have to play around with different lengths to get the right fit as there is quite a lot of flexing in the nose-cone. Incidentally, I find that the best 'tool' for operating the Dzus is a 1p coin!

I do like your build by the way; very envious.

Michael


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Supercat, 2.0 Pinto, twin 45 DCOE Webers, Piper Ultimate Road cam.

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Spent it on fast women and loose cars.
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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #11 
Thank you fo rthe pictures bud, I think I will go for the dzus fixtures for the nose cone that will help me get it in place properly, I think I will build a backing plate mounted to the chassis for them rather than the bent bar, this should reduce the flex when fitted

I have discovered another issue, It currently has the sierra steering wheel in it, but now I have looked at fitting the seats i cant get in or out of it! I am 6ft 5 so need to make the steering wheel smaller, Does it need to have a colapsable boss fo rthe IVA if your fitting a smaller steering wheel? I will fit a removable adaptor after the test but just need to make sure I purchase the correct boss as a base to start from, the one that came with the kit is a solid one, and a hard wooden wheel (which I know I cant use for the test) so I was gonna buy a 300 mm  mountney wheel just wanted to know if i need another boss that is IVA complient.

Once I have this I need to make the dash front ( a freiend is an upholsterer who is going to leather/pleather clad it for me) so that I have space to move as well as my father in Law being able to reach and see everything (he is 5ft 9) but I think due to mobility issues he will need the smaller wheel to ingress/egress anyways






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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #12 
Moved the radiator a little, and the nose sits well enough that using dzus will draw it in to fit right(ish) and I have worked out the seats, found out that the bottom pad pulls back from the rear.... duh! just got to work the rear out now and what to do for the steering wheel/dash config

also I want to fit a malpassi filter king reg and filter as I hate thyem plastic things and I have used the malpassi in many twin carb Vw's is it a standard 6-7 psi delivery pressure on these?
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overdriver

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Reply with quote  #13 
Having a little difficulty with posts so I'll try again.

Can't advise re. IVA but my (presumably original) Mountney M320 wheel is fitted to a Mountney KK32 boss. This set-up, complete with slip rings, enables the Sierra connections to use the Mountney horn push.

Mountney 320.jpg 
Wheel boss.jpg 

As for being 6' 5" - it's your own fault for drinking your milk as a lad!

Michael.


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Supercat, 2.0 Pinto, twin 45 DCOE Webers, Piper Ultimate Road cam.

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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #14 
well I have just purchased the same kk32x boss and 300 mm mountney wheel, and will just have to hope that it passes the IVA with it, as I cant do anything with what I have at the moment!

I have ordered a malpassi filter king regulator and filter...will just have to work out what pressure it needs to be set at

I have to work out where to switch and what switch to use for the handbrake light

The fuel tank has 2 small pipes at the top, I presume one is for the recepticle for the cap(overspil) and the other is for a vent? but not sure where to run it or if I should just blank it off

I am dreading wiring the car up if I am honest, but I am running out of excuses to why I cant! Rear tub will be fitted this weekend, then its make a new dash blank fit the guages and try and work out the snakes wedding of the wire loom!!

The list of jobs is getting shorter but I am also adding stuff to it like billy-o.... a good 2 days working at it over the weekend should see me knocking some more off that list! (hopefully) but be prepared for a flurry of questions




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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #15 
Ok, I have been wiring this weekend now I have a dash layout sorted (will post picture later) the tiger loom is not as bad as first feared (I hate wiring at any level) I have the three wires I believe to be for the ignition switch but can't find out which is which I have a white, white with red stripe and a brown, and on the plug for the ignition switch I have a crank live, perm live, switched live and accessory's
My best guess is that the accessory wires are not required, so I need to marry up the other three

I would hazard a guess at

White - switched live
White and red is crank live
Brown is perm live

Then I need to connect the alpha con box in to a fuse from the switched live?

Unless anyone tells me I am full of BS and need to guess again lol!

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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #16 
Went with my best guess and the only thing that appears to work is the starter motor, all the warning lights come on but only with the light switch, there is no flash, the indicators don't work or the hazard and when you switch the lights off the flasher relay has a stroke.... When cranking there is no oil pressure showing but then again I don't know if the gauge is getting power... It's been a long day so I am calling it done at the moment while I go and have a good look at the way it's wired up, it's like there is an earth missing some where..... Or many places..... I was dreading this part of the build and it appears to have delivered, the only solice at the moment is I didn't hear bending Pistons when it turned over so every cloud lol!
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TigercatDave

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Reply with quote  #17 
Hi,
I live very near you in Heathend Farnham.  I have very recently sold a Zetec Tigercat E1 which I built.  I may be  able to help on the wiring.  My experience with the Tiger loom was that it must have been designed for a much larger car.  In the end I completely unwrapped the loom and recovered it in split convoluted tubing.  This enabled me to make the breakouts in the correct position without having to lose excess length. the SATOC branch of the Tiger club meet regularly near Bracknell. DSCF2686.JPG 

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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #18 
cheers Dave,
Its all a bit messy at the moment while i have plugged everything into the loom, once i know its all working I will shorten and adjust the loom as required when I stow it properly, I just need to sit with the drawings and make sure that there are the right amount of earths and that tyhe clours match up as the build manual states as nothing seems to work properly

I only have 2 relays in my loom and 6 fuses, where are the other 2 that the build manual goes on about?  Fan, horn, flasher and lights  but I have 1 relay (does it do multiple jobs) and a flasher unit in the loom?

The headlights come on, the flash or the dip doesnt work and the indicators or hazzards dont work as far as i can tell none of the guages work, It was at the end of a long weekend of being in a cold workshop and the missues was wanting me home so I have to sit with a multi meter and work out whats going on! 
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TigercatDave

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Reply with quote  #19 
Hi Jock,
As I told you I am not at home at the moment so cant look at any documentation I might still have.  Most of it I passed on to the new owner.  I would suggest looking for posts by Giles Cooper as I remember helping me with the flasher problem and others.
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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #20 
eers I am now armed with A3 printoff of  Giles coopers PDF and will sit with a multimeter and test lamp tonight and go through the whole system..... will post my finding later on>>>
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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #21 
well, I have sat with Giles Coopers Wiring diagrams and an a multimeter, working through every cable pin to pin, and highlighting completed checks as I went. I found 1 issue with cabling with in the loom that has been joined somewhere in the loom as the blue and white and green and yellow swap somewhere in the loom as if they have been spliced together wrongly, and i found an earth that was tucked in to the cable armour at the back of the car. Have rectified these and we have lights, indicators and brakes etc etc wverything that is connected athe the moment is working with a slight gremlin in that if the head lights are on the left indicator wont work, but I am sure thats an earth or a poor connection some where when i run through the car squaring it away that will be sorted.

I have bought a RAID collapsible boss, and a mountney steering wheel, and have the fliter king and reg which i will fit tonight, getting close :-)
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rickwatton

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Reply with quote  #22 
Make sure you have oil pressure before you go for an engine start luckily for me I made sure because I had none to begin with
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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #23 
What was the cause of your oil pressure issues? I have cranked it over but I didn't get a pressure on the gauge but I haven't tested that circuit yet,
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rickwatton

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Reply with quote  #24 
Sorry for the late reply. The engine had been stood for a long time and it meant I had to prime the oil pump before starting.
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Spanneredmonkey

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Reply with quote  #25 
Well after having our first child I managed to get back to the car,
It's started, primed the oil pump and put some fuel in to it... First turn of the key she fired....
No coolant so didn't run it long,
Issue found is that it's over feeling, by that I mean that the pump pressure seems to be over coming the float valve, so I have to fit a regulator, what pressure are you guys running at?

Tided up the loom and sorted out what's what, I still have a few wire up front that don't seam to have a purpose, but I will get to that,

The plumbing has been in and out as I keep fettling the radiator position to get the nose to fit... It won't.... The nose meets the bonnet at the same place as the top of the cover for the timing belt.... So nothing lines up.

If I take the 50mm mounts out the the brake cylinder hits the backing plate for the carb filters
So i either need a smaller master cylinder with 3 outputs.... Or them foam type filters but they have a backing plate aswell with the exhaust side of the engine lower I get almost enough clearance to fit the nose, not sure what route to take any ideas

If I can figure out how to get some space between the engine and the bonnet I get this



I have also mocked the dash up and just waiting to get it trimmed by a mate who is a wizard with upholstery (he usually does yachts, and private jets)

Found a raid collapsable boss, and fitted the smaller mountney wheel,( after the test if I fit a quick release boss I may be able to even drive it!)


If I could work out this body work issue it won't take me long to get it on its wheels and drivable on the airfield, but at the moment it's kicking my arse trying to get a workable shut line and not having massive gaps and edges sticking out

I have temp added the cycle wing, looks like I need a gas torch and a vice to twist and fettle the mounts in to a usable shape

But as I am operating on minimal sleep I decided to call it for this weekend, as I had depressed my self enough with ill fitting glad fibre
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