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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #1 
Hi everyone, a little help if I can.

I've entered an autosolo event in July (eek) and it turns out the Toyo R888s I normally run are on the banned list. Someone from the motor club I've joined can lend me a set of wheels. I've just checked and they do clear at the front and the rear of my SuperSix.

I normally run ET20 and a 10mm spacer on the rear. There is no offset on the wheels I'm borrowing and, even with the spacer removed, I'm finding that the hub studs (ho
pe I've described that correctly) are too short. Has anyone replaced their studs on the rear for a longer set? If you have I'd be grateful if you could let me know what part you used? I think I have the standard cortina axle. Is it just a case of knocking them out and inserting the new ones?

I'm starting to think that I probably don't have enough 'turns' on the wheel nuts in the normal configuration so longer studs would be an improvement.

Also, has anyone fitted studs on the front hubs? It seems it would be easier getting the wheels on and off that using the wheel studs... thanks in advance!

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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #2 
https://www.burtonpower.com/grayston-wheel-stud-m12x1-5x63mm-2-5-ws1215.html

These look like they should work but I'm sure M12 is narrower than I have in there now.  I need a 19mm socket to remove the nut...

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Reply with quote  #3 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monster_UK
https://www.burtonpower.com/grayston-wheel-stud-m12x1-5x63mm-2-5-ws1215.html

These look like they should work but I'm sure M12 is narrower than I have in there now.  I need a 19mm socket to remove the nut...


Hi mate

M12 refers to the width of the stud not the socket (and therefore nut). 👍

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Abe

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Reply with quote  #4 
I may have interpreted your last question wrongly lol. I need a 19mm socket for this nut too.
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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #5 
Thanks... I think these are the correct ones.  Spoken to someone on the Tiger Facebook group that has done the work.  I was being a bit stupid by not realising the 12 referred to the thread diameter (of course the nut it bigger!!).  

I'll likely need some open wheel nuts too as the studs will be too long when I switch back to my regular summer wheels and tyres....


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Reply with quote  #6 

The studs that Tiger supply with their R10 kits need cutting to length in order to avoid the problem you have mentioned. I'm not sure “ordinary” steel wheel nuts are suitable for use with alloy wheels if that is what you have; best to check first.

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JT

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Reply with quote  #7 
I changed the front wheel studs on my last kit car as ran wheel spacers meaning i needed more thread.
It was a long time ago but seem to recall it being straight forward. I used the burton power studs. It was a case of knocking the old ones out. Lining the spline up with the new one and used the wheel nut with a socket to pull the new ones into place.
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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #8 
Thanks all... ordered from Butonpower.

Ordered open wheel nuts with a captive washer that says they are compatible with alloys 😉  Going to be borrowing some spaces and wheels for the competition.  Met a few of the members of the Motor Club last night for the first time on Zoom.  Looking forward to doing something a little different (although I expect I'll be rubbish!!)


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Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monster_UK
Thanks all... ordered from Butonpower.

Ordered open wheel nuts with a captive washer that says they are compatible with alloys 😉  Going to be borrowing some spaces and wheels for the competition.  Met a few of the members of the Motor Club last night for the first time on Zoom.  Looking forward to doing something a little different (although I expect I'll be rubbish!!)


Sounds like it’s gonna be good fun mate!
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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #10 
Just watched a video on YouTube that scared the **** out of me.  I guy was changing his studs on a car with drum brakes and he spewed his wheel bearings all over the place.... it was a front wheel drive car and he was chaging the rears.  

I'm right in thinking that on a rear wheel drive car there shouldn't be any bearing in the drum thats coming off?  Otherwise I can guarantee that I'm going to mess them up... I seem to only learn by making a right hash of it the first time!!


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Reply with quote  #11 
There are bearings in front and rear hubs and the backing plate with studs is directly interfaced to the bearing surfaces.

I'm assuming the video you've watched shows him hammering out the studs which transfers most of the applied force directly into the bearings.


When I did mine, I used a ball joint separator to push out the existing studs and then a sacrificial wheel nut against some spacers to pull them back through when fitting the new ones.
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SteveCatE1

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Reply with quote  #12 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TOC_Admin
There are bearings in front and rear hubs and the backing plate with studs is directly interfaced to the bearing surfaces.

I'm assuming the video you've watched shows him hammering out the studs which transfers most of the applied force directly into the bearings.


When I did mine, I used a ball joint separator to push out the existing studs and then a sacrificial wheel nut against some spacers to pull them back through when fitting the new ones.



I second this [thumb]

I changed all 16 studs on mine recently when I fitted +10mm spacers.
I also used a large ball joint splitter to push out the old studs.
Never hammer them directly, leave this to the uncouth.

I thoroughly cleaned out the spline holes in the hubs and coated the mating splines on the new studs with copper grease, you never know when you may want to remove them [wink]

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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #13 
Thanks for the advice... I didnt appreciate that the backing plate would transfer the force through the bearing.  I probably would have just gone at it with a hammer!

I don't have the scissors style ball joint seperator but I do have a ball joint press.  I'm sure that I can rig it up some way to work on the studs.

In the video I was watching the bearing was int he drum not the hub.  I'd (wrongly) assumed that if it wasn't in the drum then I'd be okay with a hammer!  The video is here if anyone is bored enough:



Jump to 5:14 to see him trash the bearings whilst he says "I don't want to mess with the bearings!"

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Reply with quote  #14 
The video is a bit misleading as the Fiesta video you've shown isn't how you do it on the Tiger with earlier Ford parts.

On these, the disc/drum can be removed from the hub back plate without messing with the hub nut which then means you can access the hub back plate with the studs to remove them as above.
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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #15 
I was mislead! Having no experience I’m often unsure of what I’m going to encounter when I set off on a job. Usually I just take it slowly and if something goes wrong I’m happy to take the time to put it right.

However, this time there is something of a ticking clock as I’m getting the car ready for an auto solo event in three weeks time.

I didn’t think I needed to take off the hub nut on the Tiger and I’m grateful for confirmation. The other tips will make sure that I have the least chance of doing some other harm too!

I have all the tools and parts to start now and will probably pop down to my garage today :)

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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #16 
A little bit of success and some frustration! 

Managed to remove one drum (it was really, really stuck!) and the studs.  However, it turns out that the new studs I am putting in are too long to insert with out gaining some extra room from somewhere.  The two options I've beed advised so far are to either 1) remove the half shafts, or 2) drill a hole in the backplate (later filled with a gromit).

I'm not sure that I have the room in my garage to remove the half shafts plus it sounds like there is all kinds of chance to damage seals and bearing.  Two sounds easy in principle but I'm not convined I can get the hole close enough in to the centre to allow the studs to easily insert.  The flange holding the half shafts in is rather larger.  I would have to strip the brakes which I have no idea how to do either!

Can anyone suggest a third option or provide guidance on which approach they would take and how.

I've stuck some photos on my blog: https://cartigersupersix.com/solo-prep/

Thanks in advance!!

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Reply with quote  #17 
Nightmare!

The only option for drilling I can see could be towards the bottom, but I can't see what is at the bottom of the brake shoes as to whether this would be feasible with everything "in-situ".  If you rotate the hub around so one of the big holes is at the bottom it should be clearer.  You would probably need a fair sized hole though.

I would defer to somebody else about the ease, or not, of removing the half shafts as it's not something I've had experience of doing.
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TigerEd

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Reply with quote  #18 
I'd go for option 2, drill the back plate will a Christmas Tree Drill Bit, try to match the hole size to gromit size.
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TigerEd

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Reply with quote  #19 
Or have you looked at the Hubcentric Wheel Spacers, not sure if they would work in your situation.
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