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JimM

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Reply with quote  #1 
Hi all,
Merry Christmas to one and all.

Now to my problem.

Burst my sump back in August.
Chassis engine mounts welded/strengthened.
Cut down silvertop zetec sump now repaired - mig or tig welded.

Engine and all accessories back into the bay.
New oil filter, plugs, then new oil added. Great. All done.
Back in garage yesterday to finish exhaust only to find small damp patch under sump.

Looks like repairs have not been fully successful.

Can the sump be removed without having to take engine back out?
Is there anything I can add to inside of sump to prevent oil leakage?
Sump was checked out after repairs although not by myself.
Repaired via a fellow kit owners who has welding done by a friend.

Any suggestions welcome.

Cheers
Jim

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Reply with quote  #2 
The Zetec sump is made from a porous alloy, getting a modified one to work without leaking is a challenge to say the least... so to answer your questions...

1) the sump can be removed without taking the engine out:
Drain sump (I know it's obvious)
If you have a "crud plate" between engine and gearbox loosen engine to gearbox bolts by around 10mm (do not remove them completely) and prise engine and gearbox apart
Remove sump bolts and drop sump

2) Fully clean and de-grease the sump, then use something like JB-Weld (http://www.amazon.co.uk/J-B-Weld-Original-Epoxy-Adhesive/dp/B0006O1ICE) on the interior of all of the welded seams.


I had to do this exact thing with my original Tiger modified sump when I first built my car with a silvertop engine.  It took 3 goes to fully seal the sump as I only tried "fixing" the areas where leaks appeared to be present on the first and second times, but the third time I just did all of the joints.

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T1g3rsupc4T

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Reply with quote  #3 
I've used point 2 above on my sump a few years ago and worked a treat!!! Worth trying...
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JimM

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Reply with quote  #4 
Thanks guys,

I'll give this a try.
Good news that the engine does not need to come out.

Cheers Jim

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JimM

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Reply with quote  #5 

Ok,
Jb weld purchased from Amazon and now applied to the sump weld area.

What's the best method to test the effectiveness of the additional material?

Fill with water or add new oil and check for any seepage?

Cheers
Jim



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Reply with quote  #6 
Isopropyl Alcohol is probably the best thing that is readily available in order to test for leaks as it's molecules are as small as the smallest you will find in oil.  IPA will evaporate (but not too quickly), so best to do it in an outbuilding if you can.

Cellulose thinners and white spirit will probably do the same job, just make sure J B Weld is resiient to them.

If you lay some toilet paper (preferably plain white) on a clean, dry surface, then the sump on top, any seepage will lightly stain the toilet paper and be very easy to see.  This should only take a few hours.

If you can't use any of this, pour some oil in, buy you probably want to wait for a week or more and because you don't get the oil or sump up to temperature, leakage is less likely.

Also, the advantage of using IPA/thinners etc. are that should you get a leak, you pour out the remaining liquid, dry with kitchen paper and wait for the rest to evaporate before applying more sealant to the leaking area.  If you use oil, you have to go through a full degreasing procedure again.
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AndyS

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Reply with quote  #7 
I damaged my sump (RS2000 alloy) and managed to repair it in situ with Chemical Metal. Has not leaked since

Andy
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