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Heresy0uk

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Reply with quote  #1 
Just thought id drop in some progress on my duratec change.

......

After being on the drag strip twice, dyno once and recently setting up my mates robin hood I realised how much power had been lost from my original set up. 
Checked compression and 2 & 3 were down a lot,  I  I decided to strip the pinto to try and find out why compression had dropped so much and found the inside of the bores heavily scored. Not sure how this happend but it tipped me from uming and aring over an engine change to actually doing it. 
Whilst doing this change I was also planning to move the pedals even more forward to try and make her a bit more confortable and change the clutch design to hydraulic as ive been through so many cables over the years. Also installing a hydraulic brake swithch as the pedal one never seemed to work.



Clutch, Flywheel and bell housing:

I decided go the low tech option and use my existing megajolt ignition hardware and just use bike carbs, I cant really afford the expense of throttle bodies, injectors and a proper ECU. So i purchased a Duratec engine out of a 2009 monedo. 
Then ordered bell housing from RWD Motorsport, as ive decided to go hydraulic clutch I also ordered the slave cylinder. Got really confused as I couldnt work out how the slave mounted to the bell housing so gave RWD a call and I was missing a spacer part which should have been in with the bell housing.

[bell_housing]


Once this arrived it all mounted correctly. So i turned to the flywheel side of the job. I removed the DMF and binned it. I thought I could do this side on the cheap by buying a 2nd hand ST150 duratec flywheel and clutch pressure plate of ebay and then buying the clutch from RWD and only using the friction plate. But, this didnt work as when assembled the pressure plate springs were hitting the drive plate at full clutch pedal travel which was not allowing it to disengage fully.

I worked this out only after the second time I took the gearbox off, at first I though it was due to not enough travel on the slave cylinder so I made up spacers and refitted it. Still no joy so it all came apart again and thats when I found the flaw in the plan.
After a week of driving around shops and trying different manufacturers of ST150 clutch pressure plates to try and get one with enough travel to release the clutch without clashing I came to the conclusion that its not a good idea to mix up different pressure plates and friction plates.

Capri pressure plate:Capri pressure plate     ST150 pressure plate[ST150%20pressure_small]    ST150 Flywheel[ST150Flywheel_small]


In all of this I did find out the the clutch Id ordered from RWD is just a normal 2.0 pinto clutch and could have been bought a lot cheaper. Also the clutch slave could also have been bought cheaper.

So I went back to RWD and ordered the lightweight flywheel that matches the clutch I bought of the at the start! Its a beautiful piece of kit.

[IMG_1277_small][IMG_1276_small]


Engine mounts:

While all this was going on the rest of the build was going pretty well, I cut out some 3mm steel plates and fetteled them to match the engine mount points, drilled the holes and bolted them to the engine. I got my old pinto engine mount brackets and cut off the end plates then positioned the engine in the car and welded the old brackets to the new end plates.


EGR Blank:
Used the old EGR to mark up and cut out a 3mm steel blank, used the original steel gasket and bolted that to the engine.



Coil pack mount:
I noticed that the bolt pattern for the old sensor plate the was on top of the coolant pipe bit at the back of the engine matched the coil pack. After removing some plasitc I managed to mount the coil pack directly to the plastic.


Alternator and drive belt:
So this had me stumped for a bit. There are lots of pictures of peopl moving the alternator the the cold side of the engine at the bottom and then fancy brackets etc. Ive managed to keep the alternator where it is by using a focus belt tensioner and a second idler pulley bolted into one of the old tensioner fixing holes. I had to space this idler out by 22mm using 2 m10 nuts and a washer, (actual tensions thread is M8). Now to find the correct length drivebelt, after a number of visits to my local europarts shop a found the best length was 1381. 
[Tensioner_small][idler_small][Belt_small]
[IMG_1148_small]



Cooling:
Measured and ordered the hoses as per this plan. Ordered a nice shiney degas tank :-)
[Duratec%20cooling_small][degas_small]



Intake:

As im not putting injectors in the holes i needed to plug them. I tried a few options but the best i found (with out cutting a thread into the head as i might want to put thottle bodies on in the future) was to us some M6 large flange bolts, some tap washers and a flat washer, a spring washer and doomed nut. Works a treat.
I purchased an intake manifold off DANST and some ZX9 carbs off ebay. Had to get some silicone hose and hose clips. I drilled out the jets to 1.7mm as a starter, ill get it tuned later on a rolling road. I put a M4 thread in the air correction holes and screwed some M4 bolts with thread lock into the holes.

I traced around the manifold onto some thick gasket paper and bolted them on.

[intake_small][IMG_1330_small]



Sump:

Well the sump is far to big, after the inital engine install it was clear that not even a dry sump would take it up to an ok height so I decided to raise the engine 25mm but to do this I would need to raise the scuttle bonnet, nose cone and radiator. With that now raised I ordered the Race line wet sump. Its a bit pricey but a nice piece of kit.

It comes as a kit, first you have to assemble the windage bit to the alloy baffle bit. Its quite tricky to get the bolts, windage bit and spacers assembled to the baffle. I ended up putting the bolts through the windage bit and putting the spacers over the holes in the baffle and lowing one on top of the other, then if you put a sideways load on the windage bit you can flip it over without the bolts falling out and add the washers and nuts. These are only low torque fixings, my torque wrench didnt go down that low so I damaged one of the bolts, Youll see this later as i replaced it with a stainless steel one.

[IMG_1294_small][IMG_1293_small][IMG_1295_small][IMG_1296_small][IMG_1297_small]

Then its fitting the pick up pipe to the sump, fitted seals to pipe put oil on seal to prevent damage during fitment and wiggled into the hole. Bolted down and fitted plastic spacer thingy.

[IMG_1299_small][IMG_1300_small][IMG_1303_small][IMG_1304_small]

Now to bolt in the baffle,

[IMG_1305_small]

On to the filter, filter was a bit tight going into the pick up pipe but a bit of twisting and wiggling got it in without compressing the mesh.

[IMG_1307_small][IMG_1308_small][IMG_1309_small][IMG_1310_small]

Then to fit the dipstick mount, simple so i forgot to take a picture. Then to take the old sump of the engine (its fitted in the car at the moment). So jacked up and on stands i undo all the bolts and it comes off quite easily. I clean up all the surfaces and offer up the race line sump but it wont go between the bell housing and front cover so I loosen the bolts on the bellhousing to engine about 8mm and lever the trans away from the engine, this allows the sump past so i fit the alloy block and seals to the the pump, apply the sealant to the sump and fit.

[IMG_1315_small][IMG_1316_small][IMG_1317_small]

The sump bottom was still sitting below the chassis so I decided to weld some skid bars in place to protect it. (Pictures also remind me to cable tie up the crank sensor wiring)

[IMG_1336_small][IMG_1338_small][IMG_1340_small]



Oil filter housing:

There was no way the standard oild filter housing was going to work as it put the oil filter in confilct with the structural chassis brace on the left. Looked on the internet and found that raceline sell one where the oil filter goes in from the side. I got the one with a M12 x 1.5 sensor hole and had to get adaptors to put in my temp sensor, had to buy a new oil pressure sensor.

[oilfilterhousing_small][sens_small][adap_small]



Exhaust:

So after scratching my head for a while i decided against the £400 exhausts from raceline and SBD. I bought an ST150 manifold from ebay cut off the mounting flange, then bought a 90 degree tight bend 3" pipe, a 45 degree 3" pipe and 1m of 3" pipe. I bolted the manifold to the engine and tack welded the 90 degree to the manifold then the 45 degree to the 90 degree then a short bit of the 3" and then I cut up my old 4 into 1 collector and welded that to the 3" pipe and now I had a down pipe that would interface with my silencer. Then some nice black heat wrap for 2 reasons, one to cover up my ugly welding and to push the heat to outside of the engine bay.
[s-l140_small][wrap_small][90_small][45_small]
[IMG_1327_small][IMG_1326_small]




Looks and sound awesome, driven up and down the ally and it feels very powerful :-)
[IMG_1341_small][IMG_1335_small][IMG_1334_small] Video of drive up and down the alley

Pictures showing mega jolt ecu raised as i realised it could get flooded.
[IMG_1333_small][IMG_1332_small]

Costs:
coming....
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JTskips

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Reply with quote  #2 
I think i would invest in an oil cooler ,the duratec engine oil gets very hot ,seen and experienced where the oil cooks the water ,you end up with damaged crank shells , if you ask raceline they will tell you the same , nice set up it would be a shame if you had problems with it

regards john

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duratec 2.3
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Heresy0uk

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Reply with quote  #3 
Yeah I'll keep an eye on it, I had it running on high idle in the garage for around 20mins and it got up to 65 degrees, going to take it to the drag strip first so not so demanding with the short bursts.
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Heresy0uk

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Reply with quote  #4 

 

So it was clear from the santa pod run that other than the poor grip I needed more help changing gear at the right time. The KOSO dial has a shift light but its too far out of my view to be of any use so I had a look on the internet for some shift light but being tight i didnt like the prices. I have a megajolt ECU and can program outputs at different rpm's so i was planning to get some LED and make a box for them etc but then I spotted this,

[LED_small]

I figured it would do the job with much less effort.

Problem came after it arrived and I looked into the megajolt outputs. They were ground switching which would not work with this strip. Scratched head a bit more and dug out my old electronics books and drew up a simple PNP transistor switch. Im guessing there is an IC that has 4 of these in but ill stick with what I know.

[circuit_small]

All in and working and I think it will work, I've got it starting at 2000, then the next light at 3000 to identify im in the launch rpm range then red comes on at 5000 to tell me to shift then then it gets brighter when im reaching engine explode rpm. Its looks better in real life as the red comes out much more. Click here for video.

[working_small]

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Heresy0uk

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Posts: 13
Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heresy0uk

 

So it was clear from the santa pod run that other than the poor grip I needed more help changing gear at the right time. The KOSO dial has a shift light but its too far out of my view to be of any use so I had a look on the internet for some shift light but being tight i didnt like the prices. I have a megajolt ECU and can program outputs at different rpm's so i was planning to get some LEDs and make a box for them etc but then I spotted this,

[LED_small]

I figured it would do the job with much less effort.

Problem came after it arrived and I looked into the megajolt outputs. They were ground switching which would not work with this strip. Scratched head a bit more and dug out my old electronics books and drew up a simple PNP transistor switch. Im guessing there is an IC that has 4 of these in but ill stick with what I know.

[circuit_small]

All in and working and I think it will work, I've got it starting at 2000, then the next light at 3000 to identify im in the launch rpm range then red comes on at 5000 to tell me to shift then then it gets brighter when im reaching engine explode rpm. Its looks better in real life as the red comes out much more. Click here for video.

[working_small]

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