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DJT

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Reply with quote  #1 
For any interested Avon builders:

http://tigeravonbuilddiary.blogspot.com/2011/03/visit-to-tiger-revised-avon-body.html
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BCR_AK

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Reply with quote  #2 
Sounds good! Just a bit worried about the steel injection fuel tank I have already fitted... do you know if this is compatible with the new body?

Cheers

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DJT

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Reply with quote  #3 
Hi,

Sorry, not sure.  You might want to discuss with Tiger.  I am sure you will not be the only person in this situation.  Perhaps the fuel filler can still be put on the rear.  Not sure if that would mean the boot box would need to be cut.  This would be no worse than before and at least you would have the nice lockable lid.  Also 205 width tyres now fit the rear and at a push 7" rims.  I've gone for 6.5" with 205 just to be safe (and a bit cheaper).  Still 195 on the front to fit within the cycle wings.
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BCR_AK

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Reply with quote  #4 
Cheers David. Am due to ring Tiger at some point this week, so will ask then and report back.
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squipperstu

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Reply with quote  #5 

I love the new looks. I saw them in CKC and felt gutted that I had the old look. Glad that it retro fits and that I havent had enough money to buy the body work yet. I dont think I need a lot of jigging to get it to fit either. Ill get onto tiger i think

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Blackolive

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Reply with quote  #6 
can anyone contacting tiger get us a price. if its cheap enough I may go for one, my body tub is a bit abused but would fettle up.
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DJT

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Reply with quote  #7 
Apparently it has gone up in price a bit, but I can't recall to what level.
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MarkCopsey

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Reply with quote  #8 

Looks good, a rebody might be in order in a few years


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neilp

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Reply with quote  #9 
I like the new body but intend fitting a full cage. I take it this may be a problem!!

Neil


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MarkCopsey

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Reply with quote  #10 
Shouldn't be a problem, just use the old tank and have the filler come out the back as normal.
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snoble80

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Reply with quote  #11 
Here are some pictures of the finished new Avon.
The bodywork is fully retro fittable and if fitted to an older Avon, will give about 2 inches higher windscreen. (3 inches on new build due to lower floor).

The arches have been widened to accept wider aspect wheels and the body has been evened up from each side.

There is now a lockable box in the boot area for a little bit of storage too.

Simon

Attached Images
jpeg Avon1.JPG (30.17 KB, 181 views)
jpeg Avon2.JPG (33.24 KB, 160 views)
jpeg Avon3.JPG (31.56 KB, 135 views)
jpeg Avon5.JPG (32.53 KB, 149 views)

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MarkCopsey

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Reply with quote  #12 

Looks good - does the windscreen now fit into a channel on the scuttle?


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snoble80

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Reply with quote  #13 
There is a ridge on the dash scuttle, but there is no channel
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neilp

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Reply with quote  #14 
Am  naive or what!! I have a 2004 Avon which I bought built. I decided to build one and purchased the "revised" body work in Kawasaki green. Now I expect when I buy body work for a particular model that it will fit straight on without any chopping.
Well how wrong could I be, the main body tub was a nightmare and is still not fitted correctly as the boot box is hitting the fuel return in the Tiger supplied fuel tank. the fuel tank needs dropping down about 12mm (and yes I have it fitted to the underside). The nose cone next, I can't believe you have to make the cutouts for the steering rack when there are cutouts already for the top chassis rail and then the bonnet. It comes too long!! Surely these items when designed for a particular chassis should fit straight on. Also the overall finish of the body work is crap, small cracks a few scratches, BUT the most annoying bit is there are lumps and bump on the bodywork.

Well that's my whinge over for now. and don't get me started on the chassis!!!

Neil


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DJT

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Reply with quote  #15 
All sounds familiar.  I think you'll be back on here for some more therapy when you start work on the bonnet!  Especially if it is the one like mine with the offside induction bulge.

I've got a plan.  Buy some stickers and then pick up a few stone chips.  Then people won't notice as much the flaws in the GRP.
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neilp

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Reply with quote  #16 
David,

How is the quality of your body work?

Neil


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DJT

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Reply with quote  #17 
  • Some flatness to the finish in certain areas (gelcoat too thin?).  Dirt easily sticks to these from your hands, especially on white.
  • Some lumpy bits mainly on the inside corners
  • Some cracking on the gel coat in stressed areas, e.g. where the rear arch meets the upper side chassis rail.
  • GRP too thin in places - had a scare on the nose cone, when drilling the GRP just disintegrated making a hole bigger than needed.  Epoxyed a 'load spreading washer' to hide the sin.
  • Bonnet is a nightmare to fit.
Remember to use a blunt drill bit and be careful of large sized drill bits as they tend to grab the GRP - nearly lost a cycle wing due to this.  To overcome this I've set the torque to minimum on my rechargeable hand held drill.  Now it just clicks instead of destroying something!  Also, start with a small drill bit for a pilot hole and then build up a couple of mm at a time.  Slow, but safe.
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DJT

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Reply with quote  #18 
Oh, and how difficult is it to wire up the rear lights as there is no access down through the boot or from underneath.  
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Jossey

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Reply with quote  #19 
Looks good
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Wombat

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Reply with quote  #20 
David, I have been using your blog as a guide through my build, now fitting the body (in white too) . Did you have to trim the body to get it over the round tubes, looks like it's the only way to get it to sit down enough.??

Will call at Tiger tomorrow if they are open, unless Paul is online....

Good blog by the way, thanks.
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DJT

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Reply with quote  #21 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wombat
David, I have been using your blog as a guide through my build, now fitting the body (in white too) . Did you have to trim the body to get it over the round tubes, looks like it's the only way to get it to sit down enough.??

Will call at Tiger tomorrow if they are open, unless Paul is online....

Good blog by the way, thanks.


Hi,

I did not trim the body. Hooked it under the rear chassis and pulled it forwards and down. There wad some creaking and I thought it might crack, but in the end it went on ok. I cut the pedal box mounts off to help the body fit, as I have floor mounted pedals. Actually I may have trimmed the diagonal edges slightly, at the side of the cockpit as these are covered with trim panels. You need to leave enough GRP to rivet the trim to. I've seen some Avons with the rear on top of the rear chassis. Maybe not as neat, but could make it easier to pull the front forwards and down. Good luck. Try not to put too many rivets in the GRP to hold it on. I think i used about 5 each side under the bonnet. 5mm wide head I think. Too many and it looks busy. Then you'll need a few underneath too. Make sure you've done as much wiring and plumbing at the back before fitting the body as it is a bugger getting behind the tank for number plate light etc. Anyway, good luck and look forward seeing the results.
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Wombat

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Reply with quote  #22 
David, yes I followed your lead on the blog by hooking it under back first, but (I will try and explain) where the top of the round tube meets the top back rail (with the seatbelt mounts on ) it will not fit so will have to trim. If I trim this diagonal to 50mm width do you reckon that will be ok? Will enlist the help of a mate to try pulling forward. Loving the fibreglass splinters !
Thanks
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DJT

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Reply with quote  #23 
50mm sounds plenty. You always trim a little at a time until it fits.

Is your garage warm? Just thinking GRP might be a bit more flexible if not too cold.
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Wombat

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Reply with quote  #24 
Yes got a cold garage so won't help indeed, but need to trim into basic position first.
Work tomorrow and NYE, so will give it a go NYD after the hangovers cleared.
If I can get my Instagram working will post a link, otherwise they are in my archive on LCB.

Cheers
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DJT

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Reply with quote  #25 
Ah yes, best done with a clear head. Measure twice, cut once and all that.

Cheers.
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