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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #1 
They say you learn by making mistakes... I've learned a lot today.

Don't ask how or why (I've learned my lesson!) but I've pressed the brake pedal with one of the rear drums off my SuperSix.  The shoes have now moved passed the circumference of the drum and won't return meaning I can't put the drum back on.

As soon as it wouldn't fit I realised what I'd done.  Having googled a bit it seems I have avoided the worst of the damage I might have caused.  The brake cylinder is fine, I can push the pistons back in with my finger and they slide easily and smoothly.  There is also no leaking brake fluid.  All of the rubber seems to be seated properly too.

I really can't get my head around the mechanism on the rear drum brakes.  They look like a jumble of springs and levers!  When I look at guides online by setup doesn't look like any of the figures they use.  

The brake shoes are not sat about 1/2 inch off the cylinder and the spring isn't returning them.  It feels very firmly help.  I'm assuming that there is an self-adjuster in the brakes somewhere that has locked the brakes in their extended position.  I might be wrong!

Could anyone provide me with some guidance (or point to a guide) on how to release them?

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BCR_AK

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Reply with quote  #2 
Not sure exactly what donor the SuperSix brakes are from, but usually with drum brakes there is a self-adjuster - if the piston has retracted ok, could the self-adjuster need turning a few threads in order to bring the shoes in again?

Do you have a picture?


Anoop

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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #3 
I think the brake assembly comes from the cortina (Mk 3,4 or 5).  I have the 9 inch version (I think there was a 6 inch too).

Your advice matches what others have said (I posted on a few Facebook pages too) and the consensus is that it is the self-adjuster. 

I've tried to get a few pictures (before I pressed the brake/used the hand brake) which I quickly hosted on my blog here: https://cartigersupersix.com/solo-prep/

The problem is that the shoes are so beefy they cover all the other working parts of the brakes.  Looks like I'm going to have to disassemble them.  I'm sure that I'll keep you all updated as I go by asking for more advice.  Someone should do me a favour and come and take all my tools off me... when evern I rouch them I make more work! [wink]

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BCR_AK

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Reply with quote  #4 
Haha I know the feeling - 5 min jobs somehow turn into 5 hrs!

Looking at your pics, I can't see the self-adjuster, so maybe it's behind the shoes? But it all looks similar to the Sierra setup. If I remember correctly, on the Sierra I think the adjuster is where you have the solid horizontal bar that's below the spring below the slave cylinder. So now I'm just as confused as you!

Have you used a g-clamp to retract the slave cylinder? Could need a bit more pressure than just your fingers. Also remove the top off the fluid reservoir so you're not pushing against back-pressure!





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Abe

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Reply with quote  #5 
Is there anything tucked away with what looks like a very small toothed quadrant or anything toothed at all?
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TigerEd

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Reply with quote  #6 
If the pistons are still out on the cylinder try undoing the bleed nipple on the back slowly to release the pressure. Looking at your pics I think the self adjuster is the vertical silver part behind the brake shoe, it has a ratchet mechanism on it, not sure if you can release it without taking the shoe off, but it my be possible with a small screwdriver.
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Abe

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Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abe
Is there anything tucked away with what looks like a very small toothed quadrant or anything toothed at all?


I grabbed this photo online. See if youโ€™ve got this bit on yours, from memory you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver and open up two teethed faces and that will allow the shoes to reset. When this happens stick the drum back on and pump the brake pedal and pull up the handbrake a few times and it should auto adjust. Hopefully the same drum. Happy to try and FaceTime this with you tomorrow mate?

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jpeg 41FC5D4D-1A31-4F1A-9CA4-94B7DE7668A8.jpeg (97.90 KB, 11 views)

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Abe

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Reply with quote  #8 
You shouldnโ€™t need to release any fluid or dismantle anything Iโ€™m sure of that (Unless like tiger Ed says, you canโ€™t get the pistons in, but you said they move freely right?), should definitely be some sort of adjuster in there you can release but can be a faff to find and release.
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TigerEd

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Reply with quote  #9 
Abe's pic brings it all back and is correct, the auto adjuster will be on the back of the right shoe as you look at the hub, from memory there should be a hole to put a small screwdriver through to release the adjuster.
Happy hunting ๐Ÿ˜ and mind your fingers ๐Ÿ˜†

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Abe

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Reply with quote  #10 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerEd
Abe's pic brings it all back and is correct, the auto adjuster will be on the back of the right shoe as you look at the hub, from memory there should be a hole to put a small screwdriver through to release the adjuster.
Happy hunting ๐Ÿ˜ and mind your fingers ๐Ÿ˜†


Brake shoes, I remember when I started doing these as a mechanic, man alive, I nearly cried ๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿคฃ
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JT

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Reply with quote  #11 
Thats an escort drum isnt it?
Is there a rubber plug in the back of the drum to remove to gain access to the adjuster. As abe said it will be a fine toothed thingy that you flick with a flat blade screwdriver.
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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #12 
I could kiss the lot of you... what a fantastic bunch!!

I'll pop back down to the garage tomorrow and have another look armed with new enthusiasm and a little more knowledge!!

T

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Abe

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Reply with quote  #13 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monster_UK
I could kiss the lot of you... what a fantastic bunch!!

I'll pop back down to the garage tomorrow and have another look armed with new enthusiasm and a little more knowledge!!

T

Kissing is gonna have to wait mate, social distancing and all that ๐Ÿคฃ
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JohnSix

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Reply with quote  #14 
Behind the half shaft flange you will see two levers with teeth, this is the auto adjuster you will need a couple of screwdrivers to release the binding teeth, its spring loaded so when you release you will hear it click over each tooth, this will release the brake shoes inwards then you will be able to get the drum back on. as these are self adjusting and you have the drum back on by pressing on the brake peddle it will self adjust back.

  download.jpg 

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bjm305

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Reply with quote  #15 
Good news the self adjuster is working... at this stage you could consider swapping the drums for discs.. MUCH BETTER STOPPING
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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #16 
Thanks every one!  Mission accomplished.  Now that I know where everything is there is a small chance that I might have been able to sort this without stripping the brakes.  I learned a lot doing it and everything is now back together doing what it shold be doing ๐Ÿ˜‰

BJM... I do plan to move to discs eventually but I'm having a go at autosolo.  Apparantly drums offer a stronger handbrake and this can be useful.  I might be wrong but I think you have to swap out quite a bit of the rear end to do the disc conversion?  Not as simple as the front upgrade (which I've already done).

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BCR_AK

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Reply with quote  #17 
Excellent, glad you got it sorted! Drum brakes are a right P.I.T.A!
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Gazza

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Reply with quote  #18 
Hi Monster_UK

I would recommend staying with the drum brakes as the car will end up being massively overbraked on the rear unless you fit a brake bias to reduce the braking force at the rear.

Fitting disc brakes on the rear of your Tiger Super 6 is possible but it requires a lot of work, the same applies for fitting a pedal box with a brake bias.

You almost need to strip down the whole car to achieve those two upgrades.

Gazza

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Monster_UK

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Reply with quote  #19 
Hi Gazza,

Yup I pieced a few different sources of information and come to the conclusion that it was a signficant job.  I probably will do the upgrade at some point (with the bias controller) but I'm not in a rush ๐Ÿ˜‰

T

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