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BCR_AK

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Reply with quote  #1 
So I decided to go for some fibreglass seats made by a guy on ebay - half the price of JK Composites offering (and probably half the quality, but that's another topic...)

Came to fit them today and have two issues. I'd be interested to see if any of you have some other ideas about these. Please forgive the long post again.


ISSUE 1. Seats foul the harness lower anchor points (I already have eyelet & snap hook type harnesses)

Possible solutions:
a) Raise the seats above the eyelets - unfortunately it looks like this will need 40-65mm spacers (depending on orientation of eyelet). The taller the spacer, the more it obviously affects legroom, driving position and the IVA reference height for upper anchor points.
b) Try returning my seatbelts to have the snap hooks replaced with bolt-in type end fittings.
c) Buy new seatbelts with bolt-in type end fittings (would rather not due £££).
d) Make cuts in the lower part of the seat as shown in the picture below (obviously I'm reluctant to do this...).

[image] 
The seat is made out of 2 fibreglass parts and the bit in-between is hollow. Cuts only affect the outer part and won't be visible. Although this outer bit of the seat structure isn't taking any/much load, removing it may slightly affect the rigidity of the seat and I don't really want to be discussing it with Mr IVA Inspector.



ISSUE 2. Seat mounting points don't line up with the damn chassis rails

Although i specified mounting points to be 200mm laterally apart, a combination of this not being manufactured exactly and the seat not sitting perfectly symmetrically about those chassis rails, leads to some bolt holes lining up with the edge of the chassis rails rather than the centres. [mad]

So I was thinking of making some eccentric mounts with one hole to attach with a bolt to the seat, and one threaded hole to receive a bolt through the chassis rail. Similar to the aluminium bar shown in the picture below, but made of thick steel. The X would be where the threaded hole goes, and rotating the piece would give me some lateral movement to match up with chassis rail centres (dummy chassis rail shown in exaggerated position in 2nd pic).


[image] 

[image] 
 
Can anyone see any issues with this, particularly for IVA strength requirements?


Hope that all makes sense, and any comments/opinions/ideas/suggestions welcome!!

(And yes, I am realising with hindsight I should have just bought everything from Tiger to make sure it fits...)


Cheers
Anoop

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vji4058

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Reply with quote  #2 
When I built both my Cats, I built them to pass the SVA with standard gear and waited till after to fit all the those fancy bits. I used the old large ugly steering wheel and original centre mirror, the funny mirrors that came with the kit and front indicators on stalks.
Once you have passed then go as made as you like [thumb]
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BCR_AK

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Reply with quote  #3 
Yeah, starting to realise that's a better philosophy than the "do it once, do it properly, with the spec and price you want" philosophy, which I'm trying to do and then keep hitting hurdles like this. [rolleyes] 

Getting there though, albeit very slowly....


  

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Abe

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Reply with quote  #4 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BCR_AK
Yeah, starting to realise that's a better philosophy than the "do it once, do it properly, with the spec and price you want" philosophy, which I'm trying to do and then keep hitting hurdles like this. [rolleyes] 

Getting there though, albeit very slowly....


  


I’ve fitted four GRP seats now and I nearly cried, a proper exercise in patience! 🤪 You might find laying a clear piece of Perspex in the seat well and marking out where your seat chassis rails are and where you want your seat to sit useful. I used good quality thick ply to interfere between the seat and the floor. Not sure you’ll be allowed ply for the IVA but a metal plate would work and I’ve used one before. I can pull a seat out and explain further if you’d like as this probably makes no sense.
I’m sure the more experienced builders have a better solution but happy to help if needed.
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BCR_AK

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Reply with quote  #5 
Cheers Abe. Don't go pulling out your seats on my account! Think I understand - the plywood acts as an adaptor plate between the chassis rail hole pattern and the seat mounting point hole pattern?

I'm trying to think up something similar, but it's tricky since the mounting nuts on the seat are too close to where the chassis rails edges are (but not close enough to the chassis rail centres to use the rails directly)... Also got spanner access to think about. Ideally want a captive nut or threaded hole type solution so I only need tool access from underneath the car.

I'm going away from the 'eccentric mount' idea because any forward/aft load on the seat would just try to rotate the mount. I'm leaning more towards 2x solid steel rails going front to back with counterbored holes to the seat and threaded holes to the chassis rail.

Not having a milling machine or welding kit makes these kind of problems all the more difficult to solve!

I'll scratch my head some more tomorrow.

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BCR_AK

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Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
You might find laying a clear piece of Perspex in the seat well and marking out where your seat chassis rails are and where you want your seat to sit useful


And yes, perspex is a good shout! I have been using cardboard, but it's a bit ...bendy... sometimes [crazy]

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Abe

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Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BCR_AK


And yes, perspex is a good shout! I have been using cardboard, but it's a bit ...bendy... sometimes [crazy]


Not a problem to pull one mate, although I’m working away from home until Thursday. But yeah you understand what I’m on about so that’s good! I like your idea too that’s quite clever. I used M8 countersunk bolts fixed in place so I didn’t have to worry about clearance issues.
Another reason for ply was that I raised (spaced) under the front as I wanted to tilt the chair back further, I felt too upright with the seat level and that felt worse trialing it with a crash helmet on too.
I’ve done indexing holes on my ply so I at least had some Small adjustment forward and back if needed.
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Abe

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Reply with quote  #8 
Oh and you won’t need spanner access. My 4x downward facing M8 countersunks through the ply and floor rails are all captive so you just pop it all in and pop the nuts on the underside.
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BCR_AK

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Reply with quote  #9 
All good ideas!
What did you use to keep the downward bolts in the ply so that you can still torque up the nuts from one side only? Some sort of resin? I guess I could use something like JB Weld if using steel plates.

Cheers
Anoop

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neilp

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Reply with quote  #10 
I used some 20mm x 20mm box section running length ways front to back. these were bolted to chassis rails and onto seat.
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Abe

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Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by neilp
I used some 20mm x 20mm box section running length ways front to back. these were bolted to chassis rails and onto seat.


That’s a good idea. 👍
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Abe

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Reply with quote  #12 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BCR_AK
All good ideas!
What did you use to keep the downward bolts in the ply so that you can still torque up the nuts from one side only? Some sort of resin? I guess I could use something like JB Weld if using steel plates.

Cheers
Anoop


I used Tnuts on the underside of the ply and loctited the bolts 👍
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BCR_AK

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Reply with quote  #13 
All great suggestions, cheers chaps.

The box section interface rails are a good shout - I'll probably need something wider than 20mm to give me some room to line up with the chassis.
I couldn't face the seats yesterday so did some other stuff [rofl]. I'll take another look this afternoon.

The other good news is that I may be getting somewhere with TRS (harness manufacturers) to get the snap hooks swapped to bolt-on plate attachments. Hopefully this will solve issue #1.  





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