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8dja

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Reply with quote  #1 
Hi guys,
Having a bad start to Tiger ownership at the moment.
After getting the car home last weekend I went to drive today and found the clutch would not disengage. Was told he had not long replaced the clutch, I did notice on way home it was fine getting into gear but crept forward slowly with clutch pedal down.
The only thing I done between getting it and now was disconnected clutch cable to fit a bell housing dust shield.
Cut the shield in half to slip in from the top and bottom so I didn’t need to take the grad box out.
Basically split them by about 5mm to fit the shield between.
I have since removed it to see if that fixed the issue but no.
Any ideas?
Clutch plate looks like it’s working ok
Thanks
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8dja

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Reply with quote  #2 
Video of the plate moving when I press the clutch pedal.

 
Attached Files
mov 1CB54E26-5DFB-4911-89C7-916E27057453.mov (4.40 MB, 17 views)

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TigerEd

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Reply with quote  #3 
Hi,
I don't think you have enough movement. Looking at the video the thrust bearing is not pushing the diaphragm springs far enough, you need a lot more travel. How much free play is there in the cable. What type of clutch pedal do you have, is it generating enough travel?

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8dja

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Reply with quote  #4 
The pedal travels approx 6”. The push section that is connected to the cable at the bell housing only moves approx 1cm.
Have tried adjusting the cable by adding washers but does not seem to make any difference as it seems to be the yellow adjuster section just moves to compensate for the change but does not pull the cable further, if that makes sense :)
More pictures

Attached Images
jpeg 20492C3E-69A3-4E12-A49F-747BFA873D34.jpeg (235.77 KB, 19 views)
jpeg 2790BE83-FF34-4B86-9954-3D60B00CB5FA.jpeg (312.12 KB, 17 views)
jpeg 41E4CB10-DF95-4CB6-9E6C-4F776290DD4C.jpeg (309.56 KB, 15 views)
jpeg 581A73DE-A427-4BAD-986C-F73B8C72A8AE.jpeg (409.20 KB, 13 views)
jpeg 255B596E-617D-4EFA-9042-F7DF5700B453.jpeg (604.08 KB, 16 views)

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overdriver

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Reply with quote  #5 
I've always had to have my clutch adjusted to have absolutely no play whatsoever. In fact, the release bearing arm is under tension continuously and still I have to push the pedal to the floor to engage 1st & reverse. This is despite a strip down, rebuild and new cable. I believe I'm not alone in experiencing this phenomenon on type 9/Pinto configurations - particularly if the gearbox and engine came from different vehicles during the original build.

In the first instance, try adjusting the cable at the quadrant progressively to enable disengagement. This may require the release bearing arm to be put under tension via a suitable lever whilst you take up slack at the quadrant. You will find that there is still considerable clutch pedal movement and no propensity for clutch slip.

Michael.

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Dord

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Reply with quote  #6 
Yes I have trouble engaging first and reverse on my pinto and type9, I’m hoping it is caused by being stood for over 10 years but I can’t do much until I can get it out on the road and jolt the clutch around a little to free it off (I hope)
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overdriver

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Reply with quote  #7 
Addendum.

I notice from your photos that you have the standard yellow quadrant. A larger radius version obviously helps. I replaced mine with a 55mm black (Granada etc.) variant from grahamgoode.com part no. GGR894.

Michael.

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Dord

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Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8dja
The pedal travels approx 6”. The push section that is connected to the cable at the bell housing only moves approx 1cm.
Have tried adjusting the cable by adding washers but does not seem to make any difference as it seems to be the yellow adjuster section just moves to compensate for the change but does not pull the cable further, if that makes sense :)
More pictures


I feel your pain, I have a similar issue but it looks like you still have a fair bit of room to adjust on the quadrant I think I would start there, good luck

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8dja

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Reply with quote  #9 
Thanks, I couldn’t see how to adjust it, the cable seems to be rather long so not sure this helps.
My concern was that it may have been a seized thrust barring, but I drove it 2hrs back home a week ago.

Would you expect the cable to move the push arm (sure that’s not what is called) more then 1cm when the pedal is travelling 6”.



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TigerEd

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Reply with quote  #10 
Hi,
Not sure without measuring but I would expect the clutch arm to move 3-5cm. As Overdriver says change the quadrant to a larger one, that's what I did that adjust so that the cable is tighter.

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overdriver

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Reply with quote  #11 
OK, it's cold & dark & wet and I'm not going out to the garage to measure up tonight thanks! However, c. 6" pedal travel sounds about right. Basically the release arm should move the same distance as the cable which is pulled by the quadrant attached to the pedal but this is obviously less than the pedal movement due to the position of the fulchrum point.

I'd certainly start with adjusting the quadrant by pushing the sprung ratchet away from the quadrant teeth (with a smallish screwdriver) and rotating the quadrant to the desired position. This requires the pedal to be in the 'up' position (i.e. at rest) and the clutch release bearing arm held in position to give the desired tension on the cable. It might take a couple of attempts to get the ideal bite point but it doesn't take long.

This presupposes that the clutch cable is not damaged - they usually just snap so you'd have no movement whatsoever.

Michael.

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8dja

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Reply with quote  #12 
Thanks, I will have a look at this tomorrow, I did try adjusting it by pulling back the Teeth but just seems to self adjust but with the cable in place and the pedal at rest the ratchet is almost all the way to the bottom of the teeth, so not sure how I can improve it unless I’m missing something.
Not worked with one of these before.
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8dja

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Reply with quote  #13 
Guys, I managed to get the cable adjusted using your suggestions so it pulled it 1cm further and now I have a working clutch 😄
Thanks for all the advice.
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8dja

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Reply with quote  #14 
Now I just need to find out why the oil pressure gauge goes all the way up as soon as I start the engine....
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overdriver

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Reply with quote  #15 
And I've just come in from the garage having taken photos of my quadrant! Well done anyway.

I think you've got the oil pressure gauge issue on a separate thread haven't you? But for what it's worth I'll suggest here that checking all earthing points is a good place to start when you get odd instrument readings. This includes a good engine block to chassis earth strap (no harm in sticking an extra one on) as well as instrument earth wires being tightly screwed at the rear of the panel.

Michael.

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Supercat, 2.0 Pinto, twin 45 DCOE Webers, Piper Ultimate Road cam.

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Spent it on fast women and loose cars.
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8dja

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Reply with quote  #16 
Hi Michael, that’s correct I do.
I checked the earth cables and all seemed ok, also checked earths with multimeter.

I will give Tiger a call tomorrow to see if they have any ideas.
Might need a new sender.
Thanks
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