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Dord

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Reply with quote  #1 
Hi I have a Cat E1 that I bought as an unfinished build and have been close to IVA ready for months now but keep seeing little things that I have missed, well I now need to sort out the clutch, I have a 2 ltr pinto and type 9 box with a horrible ratchet type clutch cable and have difficulty and awful crunching when engaging first and reverse gears with engine running. Then clutch bite is as high as I can get it yet still the problem persists, the car has been stood for over 10 years but engages other gears with a firm shove of the stick has anybody any words of wisdom? thanks George
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snippy

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Reply with quote  #2 
Is your clutch bite high or low on your pedal? Which clutch release bearing do you have fitted? You can adjust the ratchet quadrant by prising the spring catch away from the teeth and rotate the quadrant around a bit, then re fit the catch. This will add more tension.  
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Dord

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Reply with quote  #3 
I adjusted the clutch so that it bites close to the top of the pedal travel and I have no idea what thrust bearing is fitted sorry
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riber3

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Reply with quote  #4 
Sounds like the clutch bite is too high to disengage from the gearbox. Does it drive ok when in other gears without clutch slip?? There should also be a bit of adjustment on the cable on the belhousing end. Also check to see if the cable is not trapped on anything or frayed
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RichardMills

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Reply with quote  #5 
The standard clutch mechanism can work fine, it does on my Pinto/type 9 Cat.
You might not have the best mechanism on yours. There were several versions of the toothed quadrant/ ratchet mechanism which differed in the depth of the groove. You need one with a shallow groove which will give more clutch lift for a given pedal movement compared to a deep grooved mechanism.
Another potential problem is a sticking friction plate. When I built mine I put a light coating of grease (can't remember the type) on the splines  of the gearbox shaft. All worked fine and I went to SVA (IVA) test and back home OK (about 100 miles). Next time out I found I couldn't get from neutral to first without a scrunch and had to start engine in first or reverse gear with clutch down. Testing, while I tried to diagnose the problem, revealed that it was fine once the engine etc. had warmed up. After a few hundred miles I could not stand it any longer and took the engine/gearbox out to investigate. Found that there was a ridge of hardened grease on the shaft which prevented free movement of the friction plate. Cleaned it off and put a minute smear of high melting-point grease on the shaft, and all was well after that.
On an easier to cure problem, make sure that the cable has not overheated if it goes between the exhaust headers. I secured mine so that it does not touch them, and wrapped the pipes and cable with exhaust insulating 'bandage'. 
If you have an old cable fit a new one or, at the very least, get some oil down it.
Hope this helps, good luck!

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Dord

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Reply with quote  #6 
I also wondered about the friction plate sticking as it’s been stood for so long, unfortunately it’s in one side of my brothers garage which was a workshop area and is not easy to get the car in and out of so haven’t been able to drive it on the tarmac as yet. I have a bracket holding the cable away from the exhaust which is wrapped also so I don’t think that is the problem
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Dord

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Reply with quote  #7 
I also wondered about the friction plate sticking as it’s been stood for so long, unfortunately it’s in one side of my brothers garage which was a workshop area and is not easy to get the car in and out of so haven’t been able to drive it on the tarmac as yet. I have a bracket holding the cable away from the exhaust which is wrapped also so I don’t think that is the problem
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Dord

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Reply with quote  #8 
havent Been able to get to it today so will try again in the week
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RichardMills

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Reply with quote  #9 
Something else I've remembered (it is about 20 years since I built it!); the aluminium panel at the end of the footwell needs to be on the engine side of the frame to allow maximum swing of the pedal. Space is limited low down because of the bellhousing, but the panel can be shaped to be even further into the engine bay higher up which is where the pedal would hit it. I have just had a look and can see that I made this part in two sections i.e. upper and lower. 

I think that your problem is quite likely to be wholly or partly because of the depth of the cable groove in the quadrant.

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Dord

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Reply with quote  #10 
ok thanks I will be working on it again tomorrow hopefully so will look then
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Dord

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Reply with quote  #11 
Well I got the car out on the road and the clutch actually works ok but first and reverse are difficult to engage so I’m guessing there is no synchromesh on those gears and the engine is running very rough so I’ll start by trying to sort that out first and then hope I can set the tick over quite slow and hope the gears engage better then
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Reply with quote  #12 
Hi
Difficulty in engaging first and reverse is down to clutch adjustment or wear the points made above are still valid.
The quadrant I used a yellow one successfully, but paid attention to maximise the pedal travel by modifying it to give maximum movement.
Alec


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riber3

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Reply with quote  #13 
Quote:
Originally Posted by althecate1
Hi
Difficulty in engaging first and reverse is down to clutch adjustment or wear the points made above are still valid.
The quadrant I used a yellow one successfully, but paid attention to maximise the pedal travel by modifying it to give maximum movement.
Alec

Hope all goes well when you have sorted out the engine and I hope all the other gears engage ok
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Dord

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Reply with quote  #14 
Yes all the other gears engage ok although the shift is not particularly smooth, my quadrant is the yellow one too and I have adjusted it to bite quite high up but not high enough to cause slip. But my first job must be to sort out the running of the engine. It has a twin choke Weber and I’m wondering if one pot isn’t working, is that possible
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riber3

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Reply with quote  #15 
Yes its possible pull the the plugs leads one at a time and see if they are all firing or use a spark plug tester on each cylinder if you have one. Apologies if I have come across as teaching your granny to suck eggs!!
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RichardMills

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Reply with quote  #16 
Unfortunately you cannot always go by the colour of the quadrant as is often thought to be the case because there were aftermarket suppliers as well as Ford.
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Reply with quote  #17 
When I got my Cat E1 I to had a problem selecting first and reverse, also noticed that there was an awful lot of free play on the gear lever as well. I removed the gear lever and discovered that the little plastic saddle block that sits under the gear lever fork had totally disintegrated, fitted a new one and problem solved. This might not be your problem but might be worth checking as it's an easy job to do.

Scott

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Dord

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Reply with quote  #18 
I think the quadrant came from the donor car. I changed the saddle a while back too and it did remove a fair bit of the sloppy play from the lever.
I have taken the carb to strip, clean and rebuild in the hope it will improve things

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George
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overdriver

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Reply with quote  #19 
Hi George,

Re. quadrant size/colour the larger radius variant was the one fitted to the Granada. If you use the search facility with 'quadrant' as the key word and my username (overdriver) you'll see that there has been previous discussion on this topic.

My clutch has to be fully depressed to engage first and reverse. This is despite fitting a larger quadrant, changing complete clutch assembly and renewing the cable (which is heat wrapped to protect it from the manifold). There is no free movement on the release bearing lever - in fact it's under some tension if anything. I have often wondered whether this may be due to clutch, gearbox and engine possibly coming from different donor vehicles (I didn't build the car) thereby causing some mismatch as Type 9 boxes do differ (e.g. input shaft length) between models.

Final point, have you got the original remote gear lever set up or has it got the 'quick change' option? The original was rather 'agricultural' and prone to exacerbating sloppiness.

Michael.



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Dord

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Reply with quote  #20 
Hi Michael,

I didnt build this from scratch it was an unfinished build but I have all invoices and the engine and box and in fact all other needed parts were from one vehicle so should match correctly. At first I though the problem was the lack of synchro on first and reverse gears as cars tended to be in the early days of synchro but apparently its an all synchro box. The rough running issue isn't helping as I am struggling to keep it ticking over without using the throttle so I am hoping that once I have over hauled the carb it may solve the problem.

There is a lot of travel from where the clutch starts to bite to being fully depressed so I dont think that is the issue and my cable is not heat wrapped but I have fitted a bracked to keep it away from the exhaust.

I will look up your earlier post and read through that too 

thanks for the response 

George 

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Dord

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Reply with quote  #21 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dord
Well stripped cleaned and rebuilt carb with supplied kit seems to run a bit smoother in the garage but still the fog ☹️

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